This invention is directed to the hair treatment field, more particularly to the treatment of natural excessively tightly curled hair that has been subjected to a change in shape, such as straightening or curling processes.
Excessively tightly natural curled hair, such as of persons of certain African or Middle Eastern descent, tends to tangle and is difficult to comb. It is popular for hair styling to straighten the naturally excessively curly hair. Many commercial products and developments have been directed to the straightening or xe2x80x9crelaxingxe2x80x9d such hair. Typical straightening processes use alkalis, such as sodium hydroxide. All of these straightening products tend to injure the hair to varying degrees, resulting in split ends, weakened tensile strength, and compositionally weakened hair strands. It is reported that the straightening process results in chemical degradation of the cysteine bonds of the hair strands. Commercially available xe2x80x9cconditionersxe2x80x9d fail to provide a satisfactory solution. Prior art compositions and methods for hair treatment are provided herein below and in the comparison examples provided later in the patent.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,415,855 to Critchley, et al, describes a cosmetic composition for topical application to human skin and hair or nails. A wash list of emollients is provided that includes cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, isopropyl and butyl myristate, lanolin, mineral oil and many others. Triton X-100 is listed as one of the emulsifiers. The examples in this patent disclose emollients used in relatively small quantities.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,378,455 to Kealey, et al, describes cosmetic compositions for topical application to human skin and hair for inhibiting hair growth naming various compounds in multiple long all inclusive lists including small quantities of emollients.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,999,195 to Hayes describes personal care compositions for topical application to human skin and hair containing bioemulsifiers including a shampoo with less than 5% emollient and cleansing cream and lotion compositions with less than 15% emollients. U.S. Pat. No. 4,870,010 to Hayes is a similar disclosure.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,342,611 to Komori, et al describes hair cleansing compositions with a claimed range of 20% to 98% of a liquid oil. Specific shampoo compositions includes 20% jojoba oil and a dandruff remover contains 40% olive oil.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,034,219 to Deshpande, et al describes hair conditioner compositions containing less than 15% emollients.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,725,875 to Noll et al. describes protective skin cream compositions, which contain, among many other possible components, nonoxynol-9, identified as Triton AN-101, and emollients, such as glycerin, sorbitol and propyl glycol.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,817,155 to Yasuda et al. describes an emulsion for reducing dripping during the dying of hair. In the xe2x80x9cwash listsxe2x80x9d of polar oils included in the oil phase of certain compositions, ester oils are listed including alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate and myristyl myristate are listed together with dozens of other compounds, and noting that said oils are not preferred. The oils are found in some examples in five percent quantities.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,888,489 to Von Mallek describes conditioning shampoo compositions, including a wash list of emollients, that includes fatty acid esters, such as isopropyl myristate. A disclosure indicates that an emollient is used in 0.5 to 2.0% by weight quantities.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,968,530 to Arquette describes emollient compositions for skin care, preferably containing jojoba oil, wash listing some eighty possible cosmetic uses including hair preparations, specifically hair conditioner, hair spray, hair straighteners, permanent waves, rinses, and shampoos. Specific examples in the patent did not include any hair preparations.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,935,560 to Seper et al. describes compositions and methods to impart durable conditioning properties to hair, specifically using a thiol-functional silicone. Water soluble conditioning agents are shown in long wash list that includes isopropyl myristate and other emollients.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,641,480 to Vermeer describes compositions with heteroatom containing alkyl aldonamide compounds for hair care, especially conditioners, shampoos, conditioning shampoos, and anti dandruff shampoos. A very long wash list of surfactants including nonionic surfactants lists Triton X-100 as the condensation product of octylphenol with about 9 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide. A wash list of hair conditioning agents includes isopropyl myristate and two of 135 examples include mineral oil. None of the examples contain even two of the three compounds.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,709,847 to Bissett et al. describes sun screen skin care compositions containing a radical scavenging compound and an anti inflammatory agent to protect from sun irradiation. The preparations include a large amount of emollient and a wash list includes alkenyl esters of fatty acids with 10 to 20 carbon atoms, lanolin, and wax esters such as myristyl myristate. A wash list of emulsifiers includes a wash list of nonionic emulsifiers and examples contain glycerin and mineral oil.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,639,459 to Bouras describes hair and scalp conditioner compositions containing an oxalate in a paraffin based ointment.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,618,523 to Zysman et al. describes hair and scalp conditioner compositions containing ceramides with a wash list of adjuvants that includes propylene glycol, mineral oil, lanolin and emulsifiers with the fatty phase of the emulsion being 5 to 60 percent of the total weight.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,639,449 to Syed et al. describes a hair strengthening composition for hair that has been exposed to relaxer, the composition containing a water-dispersible polyquaternary ammonium cationic polymer that is applied after a hair swelling component has been added to the hair. Relaxer compositions examples contain up to 18% mineral oil and 12% petrolatum.
None of the prior art compositions and methods teach the present invention or attain the objects provided herein below
It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition and a method of use that substantially reduces the incidence to split ends of excessively curly hair that has been subjected to a straightening process or straight hair that has been to a curling process.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide a composition and a method of use that substantially increases the tensile strength and greatly reduces the breakage of excessively curly hair that has been subjected to a straightening process, both immediately and for extended periods of time after treatment.
It is an additional object of the present invention to provide a composition and a method of use that substantially improves the condition of excessively curly hair that has been subjected to a straightening process without introducing chemicals that cause side effects to the health of the hair and scalp.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide a method of producing and applying a composition that, when applied to excessively curly hair that has been subjected to a straightening process, substantially improves the health of the hair, including increasing the elasticity of the hair shaft and enhancing the color of the hair, both indicating restructuring of the hair shaft.
It is an additional object of the present invention to provide a method of producing and applying a composition that, when applied to excessively curly hair that has been subjected to a straightening process, improves the health of the hairline allowing it a chance to develop and avoid breaking off during subsequent washing with soap and with wash cloths.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide a method of producing a composition that, when applied to excessively curly hair that has been subjected to a straightening process, allows the person to go longer without the need of using conditioners.
It is an additional object of the present invention to provide a method of producing a composition that, when applied to excessively curly hair that has been subjected to a straightening process, substantially improves the state of the hair and scalp without the use of conditioning caps, heat caps, and hair dryers, the method of application being accomplished in a relatively short period of time.
An embodiment of the invention is the use of applying a composition to hair that improves the condition of hair that has been subjected to a change of shape, that is excessively curly hair that has been subjected to a straightening process and straight hair that has been subjected to a curling process. The composition includes about 7 to about 40 percent by weight of at least two, and preferably at least three emollients chosen from the group consisting of mineral oil, an alkyl myristate, an alkylene or polyalkylene glycol, a fatty alkyl alcohol having ten to twenty carbon atoms, and lanolin, about one-half to about 10 per cent of a fatty acid, about 3 to about 10 percent by weight of a nonionic surfactant, at least one additional ingredient chosen from the group consisting of fragrances, stabilizing agents, dyes, antimicrobal agents, antibacterial agents, anti agglomerates, and ultraviolet radiation absorbers, and the balance water.
It is preferred that the about 7 to about 40 percent by weight of an emollient mixture include mineral oil and an alkyl myristate present in weight ratios in the range of 3 to 7 and 7 to 3. It is more preferred that the emollient mixture further include at least one emollient chosen from the group consisting of a water soluble alkylene glycol, a fatty acid and lanolin. It is further preferred that the amount of the emollient be in the range of 12 to 25 weight percent, the amount of the nonionic surfactant be in the range of 4 to 8 weight percent, and the amount of the alkyl alcohol be in the range of 3 to 7 weight percent. It is more preferred that the amount of the emollient be in the range of 18 to 22 weight percent, the nonionic surfactant be in the range of 5 to 7 weight percent, and the amount of the alkyl alcohol be in the range of 4 to 6 weight percent. It is further preferred that at least half the emollient be a mixture of mineral oil and an alkyl myristate. It is more preferred that at least two thirds of the emollient be a mixture of mineral oil and an alkyl myristate. It is also preferred that the emollient be a mixture of mineral oil, an alkyl myristate, an alkylene glycol, a fatty alkyl alcohol having ten to twenty carbon atoms, and lanolin. It is preferred that the amount of the fatty acid be in the range of about one-half to about five percent, and more preferably in the range of about one to about two percent. It is further preferred that the alkyl myristate be isopropyl myristate, the fatty alkyl alcohol having ten to twenty carbon atoms be cetyl alcohol, the fatty acid be stearic acid, and the alkylene glycol be propylene glycol.
A preferred embodiment is a composition that includes an emulsion of about 5 to about 10 percent by weight of mineral oil, about 5 to about 10 percent by weight of isopropyl myristate, about 1 to about 5 percent by weight of propylene glycol, about 1 to about 4 percent by weight of stearic acid, about 5 to about 10 percent by weight of cetyl alcohol, about 3 to about 10 percent by weight of a nonionic surfactant, and the balance water; wherein applying said composition to hair improves the condition of hair that has been subjected to a change of shape.
Another embodiment of the invention is the use of applying the above compositions, wherein applying said composition to hair improves the condition of hair that has been subjected to a change of shape, preferably the condition of excessively curly hair that has been subjected to a straightening process.
Yet another embodiment of the invention is a method of conditioning hair that includes providing a person whose hair has been subjected to a change of shape, providing any of the above compositions, applying the composition to the person""s hair, allowing the composition to remain on the hair an effective period of time, and rinsing the composition from the hair with water.
Yet another embodiment of the invention is a method of preparing a composition that when applied to hair improves the condition of hair that has been subjected to a change of shape. The method of conditioning a person""s hair includes providing a person whose hair that has been subjected to a change of shape and providing a composition that includes about 7 to about 40 percent by weight of at least two and preferably at least three emollients chosen from the group consisting of mineral oil, an alkyl myristate, an alkylene glycol, a fatty alkyl alcohol having ten to twenty carbon atoms, and lanolin, about one-half to about five percent of a fatty acid, about 3 to about 10 percent by weight of a nonionic surfactant, at least one additional ingredient in an effective quantity chosen from the group consisting of fragrances, stabilizing agents, dyes, antimicrobal agents, antibacterial agents, anti agglomerates, and ultraviolet radiation absorbers, and the balance water. The method further includes applying the composition to the person""s hair, allowing the composition to remain on the hair an effective period of time, and rinsing the composition from the hair with water.
Yet another embodiment of the invention is a method of preparing a composition that when applied to hair improves the condition of hair that has been subjected to a change of shape. The method includes mixing together about 7 to about 40 parts by weight of at least two and preferaby three emollients chosen from the group consisting of mineral oil, an alkyl myristate, a fatty alkyl alcohol having ten to twenty carbon atoms, and lanolin, and about one-half to about 10 parts of a fatty acid, to form a first mixture and heating the first mixture to a melt condition. The method further includes mixing together up to about 5 parts by weight of a water soluble alkylene or polyalkylene glycol, about 50 to 90 parts by weight water, about 3 to about 10 parts by weight of a nonionic surfactant, and at least one additional ingredient in an effective amount chosen from the group consisting of fragrances, stabilizing agents, dyes, antimicrobal agents, antibacterial agents, anti agglomerates, and ultraviolet radiation absorbers, to form a second mixture. The method further includes heating the second mixture to a temperature approaching the temperature of the first mixture, slowly adding the first mixture to the second mixture while mixing, and allowing the resultant mixture to cool to room temperature while mixing.
Yet another embodiment of the invention is a composition comprising an emulsion of about 5 to about 10 percent by weight of mineral oil, about 5 to about 10 percent by weight of isopropyl myristate, about 1 to about 5 percent by weight of propylene glycol, about 1 to about 4 percent by weight of stearic acid, about 5 to about 10 percent by weight of cetyl alcohol, about 3 to about 10 percent by weight of a nonionic surfactant, and the balance water; wherein applying said composition to hair improves the condition of hair that has been subjected to an alkali treatment.
A unique nature of this invention is that the ingredients contained in this invention work together in a manner that allows the strength of the hair to be regained after its shape has been changed as a result of treatment with alkali. More specifically, this invention allows the emollients and fatty acids to be delivered to the hair and results in arresting the process of excessive breakage of the disulfide bonds in the hair keratin proteins. The proposed mechanism, based on the scientific literature is as follows: The non-ionic surfactant, such as Triton X-100, gently opens the keratin strands to allow the emollients and the fatty acid to penetrate into the protein structure. Once in, the fatty acid neutralizes the excess alkali resulting in the formation of fatty acid soap, and the emollients provide the moisture needed for the disulfide bonds and electrostatic interactions to reestablish themselves. Neutralization of the excess alkali is an essential step in preventing excessive breakage of the disulfide bonds, and allows the reformation of these bonds, thereby allowing the hair to retain its natural strength. The lack of strong electrolytes in the system allows the electrostatic interactions among the amino acid residues in the hair keratin to operate and help maintain the hair strength while the disulfide bonds are being renewed (Crewther, W. G. and Dowling, L. M., Proc. Internat. Wool Textile Res. Conf. Paris (CIRTEL), 1965, 2, 393.). Furthermore, the low ionic strength of this invention prevents the formation of too many xe2x80x9clanthioninexe2x80x9d bonds in the hair protein, which is detrimental to the hair and renders the hair untreatable with thioglycollic acid preparations. In summary, this invention has the unique combination of ingredients to reestablish the hair strength in its new shape, thereby preventing the common problems of weakened hair after an alkali treatment.
Important ingredients of the present invention fall into the general category of emollients that include, but are not limited to hydrocarbon oils and waxes, such as mineral oil, petrolatum, and the like, vegetable and animal oils and fats, such as olive oil, palm oil, castor oil, corn oil, soybean oil, and the like, and lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin, lanolin oil, lanolin wax, lanolin alcohols, and the like. Other emollients include esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as including myristic, stearic, isostearic, palmitic, and the like, such as methyl myristate, propyl myristate, butyl myristate, propyl stearate, propyl isostearate, propyl palmitate, and the like. Other emollients include fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, including stearic, myristic, lauric, isostearic, palmitic, and the like. Emollients also include fatty alcohols having ten to twenty carbon atoms, such as cetyl, myristyl, lauryl, isostearyl, stearyl and the like. Although some are water soluble, polyhydric alcohols and polyether derivatives are included as emollients, including glycols, glycerol, sorbitol, polyalkylene glycols and the like, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol 200-500, and the like. The water soluble examples are preferred.
Another important ingredient is an emulsifier/surfactant and nonionic surfactants are preferred which are broadly described as polyoxyalkylene oxide condensation products of hydrophobic alkyl, alkene, or alkyl aromatic functional groups having a free reactive hydrogen available for condensation with hydrophilic alkylene oxide, polyethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene oxide, polyethylene oxide or polyethylene glycol to form nonionic surfactants. Particularly effective are the condensation products of octylphenol with about 7 to about 13 moles of ethylene oxide, sold by the Rohm and Haas Company under their trademark TRITON(copyright) 100 series products.
Other ingredients are included in the compositions for purposes and in quantities well known in the art to be effective, including but not limited to fragrances, stabilizing agents, dyes, antimicrobal agents, antibacterial agents, anti agglomerates, ultraviolet radiation absorbers, and the like.